I trusted everything would work as I checked all of the connections to make sure they were secure. That was pretty easy but I made a "BIG" mistake. While I was at it I replaced the rear hatch as well because one of the hinges was broken. She runs like a top and should be a reliable daily driver. I took it for a test drive and it shifts as it should, no more flashing "D" or missing "R". I replaced both the axle seals in the new to me tranny as well. So, I have new clutch and bits, resurfaced flywheel, new clutch actuator and fresh Redline oil. Once that was removed she slid right into place and I had no further issues. When I pulled the tranny again that is when I realized there were two pins fighting over one alignment hole. I was having a real hard time getting things to line up. The new tranny had a locator pin in it that was already in the engine. I must say I am getting pretty good at dropping the tranny- not that I would want to do it again. The wife was wintering in California with the grand kids-so she told me she did not want me working on the car with no one else here besides the dogs. Well, I was finally able to replace the transmission with the low mileage one I had purchased off of Ebay. If not-another dealer trip will be in order. My hope is when I put the new tranny in things will reset on their own and work allowing me to put another 90,000 miles on the car. That was pretty nice of them and I do appreciate it.
The mechanic spent several hours trying to get things reset. I do have to give the Des Moines dealer kudos as they did not charge me for the diagnostics today. If this does not fix it I will probably trade it in and get one of those 2013's. Regardless this should be pretty easy compared to doing the complete clutch. So, I get to do this again but I think I can do the tranny swap without removing so many body panels. The service advisor told me they had a number of 2013's that could be had for $4400. I told them I had suspected this might be the case and that I had already purchased a low mileage tranny just in case. And this one was saying the transmission needed to be replaced. The original codes indicating the clutch components cleared but now there was a new code. I had made another appointment with the dealer for today to see if they could see why this was still happening. In the back of my mind I suspected the initial diagnosis by the dealer could have been wrong and I was beginning to suspect the transmission itself. So, at this point the flywheel, complete clutch including actuator was fruitless. I was having the same issues I did before I did the clutch job-flashing "D" and no reverse and double flashing wrenches. Any one know what these codes really mean? Thanks. I did a search on the internet for these codes but came up empty so far. I am thinking I might just have a bad gear shift module-the one on top of the tranny. I can erase the codes easily enough but they come right back. Also get a Fault on the A1 (Instrument cluster) B111E Please refer to vehicle service manual-which is most likely the double wrenches.
#TRANSDATA FOR FLASHING TOYOTA CODE#
Reading the code I get P1902 error shift operation 2. I plugged my Autel MaxiDiag back into the ODBII and I get a Fault on the N1 5/6 (Sprintshift control module). Hooking it back up and running it trough the gears. I tried the tranny relearning trick disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes with the gear shift in neutral. Let the car sit for a minute and all is well for a while again. When that happens I loose reverse but the car drives and shifts just fine. The car shifts fine for a while then the double wrenches come on and the D starts flashing. Okay folks-still having the same issues I had before I put the new clutch and clutch actuator in.
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